STIHL sustainability tip
Taking cuttings is an environmentally friendly way to get new plants – without toxic chemicals or long transport routes. Old flowerpots are great for potting up cuttings.
Taking cuttings is a quick, easy and cost-effective way of propagating plants. We explain how to do it successfully.
26.03.2025
Many plant species can be propagated by cuttings, such as hydrangea, lavender, roses, geraniums, fuchsia and lilac.
It is best to take cuttings between the end of May and August, when the new growth is long enough and has matured.
It is not possible to give a general answer as to whether you should root cuttings in water or soil.
If rooted in soil, the young plant cuttings are easier to pot, while cuttings rooted in water have more brittle roots. That said, water-rooted cuttings have enough moisture and can be kept in their vessel without the need to be under plastic.
Seed sowing compost or normal potting soil mixed with sand is suitable for cuttings. The substrate should be low in nutrients and germ-free.
The difference between cuttings and layering is that a cutting is a piece of growth material cut off from the plant, while layering uses a shoot or twig which is attached to the plant, bringing it to the ground and covering it with soil.
The roots form on the stem and then the rooted part is cut off. Cuttings are separated first, and then root independently of the parent plant.
Cuttings are best rooted in seed compost or potting compost. For the plants to access the few nutrients that the substrate contains, they need to form more roots to supply their needs.
Cuttings are sections of growing material from a parent plant. These may vary in nature. Find out here what kinds of cuttings there are:
Tip cuttings are not only suitable for plant professionals.
For a tip cutting, simply cut off a growing tip that includes an internode piece and bud, for example from a fuchsia, pelargonium or hydrangea.
An internode is the stem piece between two nodes. Tip cuttings take root relatively easily, making them a good choice not only for planting professionals.
Garden roses are ideal for stem cuttings.
Stem cuttings are leafless pieces of stem with multiple buds. Some plants are not suitable for stem cuttings because their stems are too short or too branched, for example geraniums.
However, more stem cuttings can usually be removed from a parent plant than tip cuttings. Dracaena and roses, for example, are very well suited for stem cuttings.
Leaf cuttings consist of a single leaf.
Leaf cuttings consist of a leaf with or without stem and can only be used to propagate certain plant species, for example begonias and African violets.
In most cases a special cutting technique is required, in which the leaf nerves are cut into at branch points.
It should also be noted that leaf cuttings are rather soft and prone to rot. The advantage is that you can usually obtain a large number of leaf cuttings from one parent plant.
Root cuttings are easy to take from drumstick primroses.
Root cuttings consist of a root piece without stems, leaves or shoot tips. Root cuttings can only be used for propagation of a few plant species, for example the drumstick primrose. A parent plant can usually give you many root cuttings.
However, taking cuttings is not the only way to propagate plants. Garden flowers can also be multiplied through layering and sowing. But what are the differences?
Tip layering is when a stem cutting is bent to the ground and the end is completely covered with soil, while in simple layering the stem tip pokes out of the ground. At this point, both remain connected to the parent plant, whereas cuttings take root independently of the parent plant.
Although seed propagation outshines cuttings in terms of the possibility of an enormous range of varieties, with cuttings you can benefit from comparatively large plants after just a few weeks. In addition, cuttings act as 1:1 clones of the parent plants, meaning you won’t need to deal with new colour mixes or shapes. That means you should choose a healthy stem from a well-flowering parent plant that has the properties you want.
STIHL sustainability tip
Taking cuttings is an environmentally friendly way to get new plants – without toxic chemicals or long transport routes. Old flowerpots are great for potting up cuttings.
Taking cuttings correctly is easier than you think and is not just a task for planting professionals. We explain each step to achieving even more fresh colour in the garden, in your home or on your balcony. Enjoy!
You can start taking cuttings with just a few utensils. Find out what you need with our list.
First choose a healthy parent plant which has the properties you would like your cuttings to have. A special flower or leaf colour, for example, counts as a property.
For hydrangeas, cut the stem or stem sections under a leaf node. This usually results in one tip cutting and several stem cuttings per stalk.
Remove all leaves from the tip cutting, except for the top two leaf pairs. If the cutting has a soft tip, cut it away until only the top two leaves remain. You should proceed in the same way for longer shoots: simply cut above a leaf pair and below the next leaf node. In addition to the tip cutting, this also results in some stem cuttings.
Reduce the remaining leaf surface area by two thirds to make the evaporative area smaller – this will help prevent your cuttings from drying out. Simply fold the leaves inwards along the long axis and cut them with secateurs.
Fill the pots with seed compost and lightly firm the soil.
Insert the plant cuttings, press the soil around them, and water them so that they have good soil contact and enough moisture.
The cuttings now go into a propagator to ensure the high humidity required for rooting. The vents remain closed in this process. Alternatively, if you don’t have propagator, set up a glass dome, a large jar, or a cling film cover held up over the cuttings with skewers .
As soon as new leaves form, you can remove the hood. You may already be able to detect the first roots through the water drainage hole.
Repot the now-ready seedling and treat it like any other plant of the same type. Let it spend the winter in a sheltered place – potted in the garden.
The lavender cutting is ready for planting.
To take lavender cuttings from a parent plant, cut 8- to 10-centimetre pieces from the tips of stems.
Strip all the leaves off to a length of about 7 centimetres and pinch off the soft tip with your fingers.
Now place the plant cuttings in pots with seed sowing compost. This is easier if you have already made a hole with an old pen beforehand.
Then firm the soil around the cutting and place the pot in the propagator. By the way, you can place different plants in the same propagator without having to take any other steps.
Small stems indicate where the leaves were.
Cut a good 30-centimetre-long rose stem from the parent plant.
Remove all the leaves, but leave small stalks so you can still see where the leaves were. Cut the stem 0.5 centimetres above a leaf point. If the leaves are close together, cut the stem above every other one. You can remove the shoot tip.
Place the cuttings in small pots with soil and firm the soil around them. The pot is now ready for the propagator!
STIHL tip
In addition to hydrangea, lavender and roses, indoor and container plants such as fuchsia, oleander, geranium and plumbago have proven their worth when it comes to taking cuttings from a parent plant. In addition, shrubs such as viburnum, deutzia, sage and thyme are great for taking cuttings.
To enjoy healthy plants for a long time, there are a few things to consider when taking cuttings.
The best time to take cuttings from the parent plant is from the end of May to August, when the fresh shoots are long enough and have matured.
The time you take the cuttings will determine their success, as the cuttings should have firm but flexible stems. If the shoots are still too soft, they will rot. If they start getting woody, the cuttings will struggle to root. If a cutting bends downwards when you hold it up between your thumb and index finger, it is not suitable.
The length of the cuttings varies depending on the size and growth of the plant to be propagated. Always cut the cutting as close as possible below a bud or pair of buds, as the plant has a lot of meristem in this area and also has the most growth material. Both are of central importance for root formation.
The cutting should be at least one internode, i.e. a stem section between two buds or pairs of buds. Remember to remove the leaves on the lower pair of buds when cutting, as they rot quickly when in contact with the ground.
When it comes to a substrate to insert cuttings into, it’s best to use ready-made potting compost, or even seed compost. This is low in nutrients and forces the young plants to form roots: to access the few nutrients in the substrate, the plants need to form more roots to meet their needs.
Cuttings can thrive not only in plant soil, but often also in a glass of water. If you let the cuttings root directly into soil, the seedlings are easier to pot up, as the roots have already formed as solid balls. Water-rooted cuttings have more brittle roots, so be extra careful when potting them up.
This method takes up less space and does not require a plastic cover over the container to guarantee a high level of air humidity, as soil-based cuttings do.
If you want to take care of your cuttings appropriately, make sure that the soil does not dry out. However, it should also not become too moist. This means you should remove the cover for ventilation as soon as you notice condensation. If rot is visible on herbaceous plant cuttings, dispose of them immediately.
After around two to three weeks, cuttings form new roots – and this is the perfect time to pot them up.
Use a nutrient-rich but not too heavily fertilised soil, for example commercially available plant soil for pricking out. This is how your plants thrive best.